⟪Mount Bandai ⎯1,816m⟫

The Samurai’s Homeland ⎯ Aizuwakamatsu

On this trip to Japan, I met up with my family in Aizuwakamatsu, a town in Fukushima Prefecture, to experience life at a slower pace. We spent most of our time away from crowds, wandering quiet mountain trails, strolling along country roads, and picking fruit at local farms. This easygoing way of life gave me time to connect with this seemingly ordinary countryside, which actually holds extraordinary stories of bravery and resilience.

Back in 1868, Japan was shaken by a civil war, a transformative conflict called the Boshin War. This was a struggle between the Tokugawa shogunate’s samurai-centered forces and the new government troops, who sought to modernize Japan. Fierce battles erupted across the country as the samurai were gradually pushed back, retreating all the way to Aizu’s Tsuruga Castle. Here, the loyalist samurai gathered, determined to hold their ground with swords against the new army’s firearms. Despite their skilled swordsmanship and their month-long defense of the castle, the samurai eventually fell to the government’s powerful artillery.

This marked the end of an era—the era of the samurai, known for their loyalty and steadfastness, which faded away like cherry blossoms on the wind. Today, when people think of samurai in Japan, Aizuwakamatsu is often mentioned. It stands as a symbol of the last proud spirit of the samurai in Japan.

⟪Aizu’s Tsuruga Castle⟫

The Samurai Academy ⎯ Aizu‘s Nisshinkan

The Aizu’s Nisshinkan was an elite academy for samurai, mostly attended by noble-born youth being groomed for future leadership. From age ten, students undertook a broad curriculum that went far beyond combat skills like swordsmanship, archery, marksmanship, judo, horseback riding, and even swimming in armor. They also studied calligraphy, etiquette, moral philosophy, tea ceremony, Zen meditation, cooking, and subjects like astronomy, chemistry, mathematics, medicine, and science.

One unique, if solemn, part of their training was a mandatory lesson on seppuku, or ritual self-disembowelment, should they face defeat in battle. Becoming a future leader back then meant mastering a range of skills, developing resilience, and embodying courage. And if one happened to also be handsome and stylish? Well, that could be a path to legendary status! 😍

The 1000-Yen Portrait ⎯ Dr. Hideyo Noguchi

The portrait on Japan’s 1000-yen bill features Dr. Hideyo Noguchi (1876-1928), a globally renowned bacteriologist. Born in Aizu, he began his journey into medicine here. Coming from a poor farming family, he overcame immense challenges, including a severe burn injury to his left hand that made farm work impossible. Remarkably, without a formal medical degree, he passed the physician’s license exam at just 20. With sponsorship, he traveled to the U.S. and later to Africa to conduct groundbreaking research on infectious diseases.

Dr. Noguchi dedicated his life to studying disease pathogens. He successfully cultured the syphilis spirochete, identifying pathogens for polio, rabies, trachoma, and yellow fever. His inspiring story is part of the standard curriculum for Japanese children! When visiting Aizu, you can stop by the Hideyo Noguchi Memorial Hall, where his medical journey began.

⟪Aizu’s Celebrity ⎯ Dr. Hideyo Noguchi⟫

Local Specialty ⎯ Wappa Meshi

Wappa Meshi is a charming bento served in a round container made from fragrant cedar or cypress wood, adding a light, natural aroma to the meal itself. Inside, you’ll find steamed rice paired with fresh, local ingredients like salmon, shredded crab, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelet), and seasonal wild vegetables. The steaming process allows the flavors to blend beautifully with the rice, making each bite deliciously fragrant and sweet.

Another classic dish is Negi Soba, or green onion soba noodles. Made with refreshing spring water, the soba noodles are chewy and light, and they’re enjoyed uniquely with a long stalk of green onion used as chopsticks! The fresh, slightly spicy taste of the onion adds a fun twist to this traditional countryside dish.

⟪Aizu's Local Cuisine ⎯ Wappa Meshi⟫

The Lucky Charm ⎯ Akabeko

As soon as you enter the Aizu region, you’ll notice red cows painted everywhere. These are Akabeko, legendary red cows with a history dating back 400 years. According to local folklore, after a devastating earthquake toppled large temples in the area, a herd of strong red cows mysteriously appeared from the forest to help the villagers transport timber and rebuild their homes. Once the work was done, the cows vanished.

In gratitude, the villagers created statues of red cows and placed them in front of temples, which eventually evolved into a series of traditional Akabeko crafts. These red cows symbolize good fortune and prosperity. The black spots on their bodies are believed to protect children from smallpox, making Akabeko not just a charming figure, but a powerful talisman for warding off evil and bringing luck.

⟪Aizu's Lucky Charm ⎯ Akabeko⟫

An International Icon ⎯ Aizu Lacquerware

Aizu is also renowned for its unique lacquerware, an ancient craft with roots in the Edo period. In this region, Japanese lacquer trees were cultivated, and skilled artisans combined fine woodworking with traditional decorative techniques like maki-e (sprinkled gold or silver powder), hana-nuri (floral patterns), and raden (mother-of-pearl inlay). These techniques elevate the pieces to a whole new level of beauty, creating lacquerware that’s known worldwide.

Aizu’s lacquerware, featuring classic black, red, and gold tones with intricate patterns, was among the first Japanese crafts to be exported and recognized internationally. This special lacquer not only adds beauty but also protects wood from moisture and pests, so it’s even used on local wooden roofs and beams! It’s amazing that such an internationally admired art form comes from this small, hidden gem of a town.

Japan’s Produce Paradise ⎯ Peaches and Melons

The entire Aizu region is a hub for agricultural delights. We were lucky to visit in summer, enjoying the sweetest peaches and even stopping by a local farm to learn about their growing process. The farmers taught us how to select perfectly ripened, delicious melons by examining their shape and texture. With an abundance of fresh fruit every day, we could practically feel our skin becoming more hydrated and radiant!

May your days be filled with joy,
Susu❤️

Each plant flourishes with a gardener’s care—I aspire to nurture my spirit the same way.

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